After the storms
At the end of a very rainy winter, Craig and I took advantage of a few days of sunny weather
for an outing to Treasure Island. And before the rains started up again,
we also attempted a hike at Briones Reservoir. Results were mixed.
Come for the view, stay for the food!
The San Francisco Bay Bridge crosses from Oakland in the East Bay to San Francisco in two spans, one on either side of Yerba Buena Island. Sprawling in a flat expanse to the north of Yerba Buena is Treasure Island, an artificial island extension built for the 1939 Golden Gate International Exposition.
Visiting the island means that you must battle bridge traffic whenever you come or go — or you can now also catch a ferry to or from the City. Despite this nuisance, Treasure Island is well worth a visit, for the site offers some of the most spectacular views to be found anywhere in the Bay Area.
So in late March, when our favorite expert birders Ron and Linda Klein paid us a visit, we decided that an outing to Treasure Island would be the perfect way to spend one of the sunny days they had brought with them. The latest storm had passed the night before and scrubbed the air clean, so the views were miraculous.
A couple of restaurants draw diners from both sides of the bridge, but Mersea’s views of the city are incomparable. At outdoor tables and in dining rooms fashioned from shipping containers, Mersea offers a limited food menu, extensive drinks list, fantastic views, and occasional live music (though none while we were there). We chose Mersea for its views, but the lunch was also excellent. (We tried their crispy Brussels sprouts, haddock & chips, and caesar salad.)
No sooner had we risen from the table than a couple of scavenging Western gulls descended — even though we’d left them barely a scrap! After lunch, we crossed the street to the waterfront to check out the birds (including a common loon — a new bird for Craig and me!) and take a few photos. Construction has blocked off a key section of Palm Drive, so we drove around the island to get a feel for what’s going on (lots of construction).On our way back to the bridge, we stopped on the upward slope and took a few photos looking to the north and west and back toward the East Bay and the Bay Bridge. A very photogenic day!
Hiking through the mud
A few days after our jaunt out to Treasure Island — and after Ron and Linda had headed off to their next adventure — we decided to take advantage of the continuing sunny weather and go for a longer-than-usual hike. So we headed out to Briones Reservoir. Briones is managed by the East Bay Municipal Utilities District (EBMUD) and hiking there requires a permit. Fortunately, Craig was equipped, so off we went.
A 13.6-mile trail circles the lake, and there are two trailheads. Craig and I had hiked from the Bear Creek trailhead several times, but I had never done the more distant — and more exposed — Oursan Trail. On this lovely, cool, and sunny morning in early April, we decided to try that segment.
Things started off well, as we climbed the hills on what I think of as the back side of the reservoir. We even met a California brown newt making his moist and ponderous way along the path.Craig and I have an ongoing debate about whose footwear is better. He maintains the general superiority of his Chaco sandals (“the best sandals in the world,” in his opinion), which he wears on almost all occasions. He has a pair for hiking, some for everyday use, and even a pair for Sunday best. On muddy hikes, he points out with a hint of smugness, wearing sandals means that you don’t end up with wet socks — plus, you get that delightfully cool, squishy sensation between your toes. (Okay, he might not phrase it exactly this way.)
I, on the other hand, love hiking in my Hokas and flowery gaiters. They’re sturdy and comfortable, and I don’t get sticks or pebbles in my shoes. And if I wear my wool socks, damp feet don’t bother me… much.
On this hike, though, where much of the trail was deep in slippery mud, the choice between shoes and sandals was mainly a question of aesthetics. After slogging and squelching up yet another slippery slope, we finally gave up the battle, discretion being the better part of valor. Better to save this hike for a drier day.
The Water Nixie
We’ve had such a lot of rain this year that whenever we hike we invariably find ourselves picking our way up or down a muddy hill. And when our feet slip and slide as we try valiantly to climb a steep and slickery slope, I think of “The Water Nixie,” a folk tale in rhyming couplets read by Danny Kaye. My sisters and I listened to this record ad infinitum when were young (this might be where I developed my taste for audiobooks) — so that I knew most of these stories by heart.
In this particular tale, a brother and sister are enslaved by a wily water nixie after they fall into her well. She gives them tedious and nigh-impossible tasks to accomplish:
She gave the girl some tangled flax and made her sit and spin it
and carry water in a can that had no bottom in it.
She gave the boy a heavy axe, as dull as it could be
and made him chop her kindling from the very hardest tree.
The children decide to run away. When the nixie chases them, they drop magical objects to impede her passage — a brush and a comb and finally a mirror. This is the passage that comes to my mind on our hikes:
Then the sister dropped a mirror, the most magical of all,
and it grew into a mountain range so shiny, smooth, and tall —
and so slippery that the nixie couldn’t climb the glassy side,
for she slipped each time she tried to take her giant nixie stride.
Then the mountains grew much steeper — really, quite remarkable —
and for every forward step she took, the nixie slid back three…
Some years ago, my sister Shannon tracked down MP3 files of these stories. I lost my copies at some point, doubtless in the transfer from one computer to a newer one. But, of course, everything can now be found on YouTube, so you can listen to the whole story for yourself!
Here’s to the words we’ve learned by heart: those poems, songs, and stories that emerge from memory to color our impressions and texture our experiences.
Connections
- Mersea Restaurant
- Aerial photograph of Treasure Island and Yerba Buena island in the San Francisco bay (satellite imagery taken from USDA’s NAIP: public domain)
- Wikipedia: Treasure Island, San Francisco
- Treasure Island Museum
- In reading up on Treasure Island, I learned of its history as a naval base — and the disturbing legacy of the Navy’s tenure there. As is true of many former military sites, toxic and radioactive residues still haunt the island. Here are a few references, if you want to know more:
- Wikipedia: Naval Station Treasure Island
- Matt Smith: Radiation Contamination on Treasure Island More Widespread Than Reported (KQED, 17 August 2012 — Produced by The Bay Citizen and accessed in March 2024)
- Ashley Bates: Treasure Island: A Radioactive Isle (East Bay Express, 5 September 2012)]
- Matt Smith and
- Carol Harvey: Treasure Island: Pandemonium at Halyburton Court (San Francisco Bay View, 9 April 2014)
- Robin Respaut and Reade Levinson: Legacy of Contamination (Reuters Investigates, 31 January, 2019)
- Garrett Leahy: Is it safe? Treasure Island residents face health concerns from toxic dust (48hills, 20 November 2022)
- Treasure Island Development Authority
- Briones Reservoir (Parks of the San Francisco Bay Area, Redwood Hikes Press)
- EBMUD: Trail use permits frequently asked questions
- YouTube: Grimms’ Fairy Tales told by Danny Kaye (These are all the stories, including another that is especially fun and funny, called “Clever Gretel.” Enjoy!)